The Princes Islands

Every website and travel book that I saw before our trip suggested a side-trip to the Princes Islands, which are just an hour or so ferry ride away from the rest Istanbul. Described as quaint islands frozen in time, the excursion seemed to have a certain pull to it, promising a relaxing day trip of ambling, horse and buggy rides, and beach fun.

After our longer-than-expected ferry ride to an island whose name we could not pronounce, we arrived at one of the Princes Islands. Hungry for some good seafood, we settled ourselves down at a restaurant on the water that appeared to be slightly less touristy than the rest. My friends ordered some fish sandwiches, I ordered crab, and we all split some appetizers. My expectations were high. Seafood? From an island that's part of city surrounded by two giant lakes? In a Mediterranean country? What could be better!

I was so wrong.

Please do not eat at this restaurant

This meal, the most disappointing, unsatisfying, and poorly executed meal I can recall ever having at a sit-down restaurant, was just the first bad taste to our island excursion. While my crab was either so old or so badly cooked that it rendered it nearly inedible, and the appetizers were too oily to be at all appetizing, the fish sandwich that my friend ate actually made her feel ill.

Afterwards we attempted to see a bit of the island. Having decided that it was too hilly to make renting a bike relaxing and fun, and resenting the horses for the giant "presents" they left steaming in the streets, we decided to go on foot. We did pass some adorable houses and quiet streets, but we were already feeling too disenchanted with the island to take much pleasure in it.

Our attempt to go to the beach backfired as we failed to find it after asking for directions several times. However, it could have been that the "beach" everyone was simply referring to a rocky stretch of land by the water that was left void of restaurants and anchored boats.

Overall our Princes Islands experience was not what the guidebooks had promised. Admittedly, we were on the last legs of our journey and were therefore mentally and physically exhausted from three weeks of non-stop travel, but we found that the island was much more of a mini-getaway for Istanbul residents than a lavish day trip full of charm and wonder.